History and symbolism of the signet ring
The etymology of the word itself already makes us learn a lot about the history of the signet ring . the use of the term "signet" or "seal", from the Latin “sigillum” ("seal"), diminutive of signum ("sign") dates back at least to the second half of the thirteenth century, when the signet ring was yet a "small seal used for formal or official purposes", ie a substitute for a signature on official documents in a time when few people could write. But the story of the signet ring is very old. Indeed, men have been wearing them for thousands of years. Their first use seems to date back to ancient Egypt,
more than 4,000 years ago.
Many signet rings were discovered in the tombs of pharaohs and some senior officials. It seems that these rings were used to signify the authority and to seal business transactions.
Each signet was unique and recognizable by all. The designs were consisting of symbols dedicated to nature and ancient gods. Beetles, for example, were symbolizing the sun. They were very often present in ancient Egyptian signet ring designs. The Greeks borrowed the beetle symbol for their signet rings, but also mingled the symbolism of their own culture in the design of these rings. These symbols included animals, mythological figures and gods. In turn, the Etruscans adopted the signet ring of the Greeks around the 6th century BC, displaying their own symbols of power and prestige on the rings as griffins and lions.
As the decades passed and monarchs adopted more ornate attire, the signet ring went from practical and simplistic to fashionably eccentric. When the owner eventually died, the ring would often be destroyed with him, not handed down to his son the way it was so prominently done in the 1800s and onward.
Today, signet rings are far less necessary. For the men who do wear them, it is simply an heirloom handed down through generations. A symbol of fraternity such as belonging to the Freemasons, or a fashionable mark of sophisticated grace that, when worn correctly, elevates the style of a rakish gentleman.
lthough there is a vast number of jewelers who make and sell signet rings, only a handful of them do it well. Most are machine made, or hand engraved the same as any other jewelry.
Shapes
There are shapes most commonly available in signet rings, with of course others that have been introduced over the years. Here are the popular which have lasted through time.
Round
Exactly what it sounds like, in this case the bezel of the ring is round. It’s an elegant and more refined alternative to the bulbous oval when made correctly.
Straight Oval
By and large the most popular signet ring shape, it’s very easy for the engraver to work with. It’s quite traditional and always looks spectacular, yet conservative when made correctly.
Cushion
The favorite ring during the Victorian Days, this is the next most popular style second to the straight oval. It’s subtle and elegant but offers a slightly less common appearance similar to a fine nib as opposed to a medium nib with fountain pens.
Which finger should a signet ring be worn on?
Wearing a signet ring in the rules of art is a relatively codified exercise, although its use has evolved through years and with the democratization of the ring. Let’s see now the codes that are practiced in the purest tradition, as it would be applied at the nobles and aristocrats.
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Wearing a signet ring for men
In France, the wearing of the ring varies depending on whether the man is the head of the name and arms of the family or not, namely the elder. Only the latter, which in the nobility is the holder of the title, wears the signet ring on the ring finger of the left hand, with his wedding ring. The other male family members must in principle wear their signet ring to the little finger of the hand that does not carry the wedding ring, namely the right one.
The coat of arms of men signet rings is engraved in a rectangular bezel. If the family is noble and titled, the eldest male can have a crown engraved on the ring indicating his title of nobility. The untitled nobles and cadets of titled families can have a helmet carved as a symbol of simple nobility.
If the family does not belong to the nobility, the bezel must in principle not be stamped. Only citizens of Paris were allowed to have their emblem without being noble. However, this rule is rarely applied, for aesthetic reasons.
In England, including in the royal family, the signet ring is worn on the little finger of the left hand, which is considered the usual place.
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Wearing a signet ring for women
If all women wear the signet ring on the little finger (right or left, according to the families and countries), the distinction is based on the marital status of women.
The coat of arms of a married woman is worn in an oval bezel. There is in principle neither crown nor helmet (except for princesses, queens and empresses) because the titles were military, therefore only awarded to men.
Young unmarried girls wear their coat of arms in a diamond-shaped bezel. A woman from a noble family wears the arms of her father on a diamond-shaped bezel until her wedding. If she does not marry, she will continue to wear these coats of arms.
If she marries a man from a noble family, she has to give up her family coat of arms and adopt those of her husband, to be worn in an oval-shape bezel. She can also choose to mingle her arms and those of her husband on the shield.
If the girl marries a man who do not possess arms, she can keep her maiden signet ring.